Hydrating Vitamin C Serum
Vitamin C is a strong anti-oxidant which prevents oxidative damage. Using L-Ascorbic acid is bit tricky and difficult. Instead Vitamin C derivatives like MAP can be used which work great as an anti-ox...
Vitamin C is a strong anti-oxidant which prevents oxidative damage. Using L-Ascorbic acid is bit tricky and difficult. Instead Vitamin C derivatives like MAP can be used which work great as an anti-oxidant and help in reducing pigmentation.
This is a simple serum yet effective as a day serum.
Allantoin, Green tea extracts are soothing for the skin. They help in reducing inflammation.
Glycerin and HA are humectants which keep skin hydrated and plump.
Lactic acid is added to reduce the pH to 6 since MAP works effectively above 6 which is okay for skin too.
Preservative Eco is a natural preservative.
Ingredients required: 50g
Phase A: (Heated water)
MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) - 1.5g
Sodium Gluconate- 0.05g
Allantoin- 0.25g
Glycerine- 2.5g
Rose water- 24.5g
Distilled water- 20g + 5g for water lost
Phase B: (Cool down)
Green tea extract- 0.25g
Lactic acid- 0.2g
Preservative Eco- 0.5g
Sodium Hyaluronate/Hyaluronic Acid - 0.25g
Equipment required:
100ml glass beakers
Stirring rods and Spatulas
Glass bottle
Weighing scale (that measures upto 0.01g)
Cups to measure ingredients
Procedure:
- Measure Phase A ingredients in a beaker.
- Heat it on a double boiler until all the powder ingredients (MAP, Allantoin) are dissolved. (below 70degC and less than 15min)
- Add Phase B ingredients once the beaker is off the heat and is at room temperature.
- Sprinkle HA powder in the last. Leave it for 3-4 hours or overnight to hydrate.
- HA forms lumps initially but it will be dissolved in sometime.
- If it is not dissolved even after 4 hours, you can break the lumps with stirring rod or use blender.
- Test the pH, it should be around 6. If it is higher, add few drops of lactic acid, if it is lower add few drops of TEA (Triethanolamine).
- Once HA is hydrated and it has a nice gel texture, pour into a dropper bottle
Substitutions:
- Rose water can be replaced with another hydrosol or distilled water
- Extracts can be of your choice.
- EDTA can be used in place of sodium gluconate and propanediol 1,3 instead of glycerine.
- Instead of lactic acid, citric acid solution can be used to adjust pH.
If you make and like this serum, do tag us on instagram @ekora_bazaar
Disclaimer: This blog is for educational and informational purposes only.
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Formulation Technical Q&As & Scale-Up Guide
What is the recommended pH target for Hydrating Vitamin C Serum?
For stable cosmetic performance, the ideal pH is between 5.0 and 5.5 for barrier and brightening serums, or 5.5 to 6.5 for hair vitality and rinse-off washes. Always test and adjust using a calibrated digital pH meter or high-accuracy test strips.
Which broad-spectrum preservative is recommended for this water-containing recipe?
Any aqueous cosmetic formulation requires broad-spectrum preservation against bacteria, yeast, and mold. We recommend 0.5%–1.0% Phenoxyethanol + Ethylhexylglycerin (Ases Preserve PHEHG) or Liquid Germall Plus, incorporated during the cool-down phase below 45°C.
What is the expected shelf life of this finished formulation?
When prepared under sanitized studio conditions with distilled water and an approved broad-spectrum preservative at proper pH, the typical shelf life is 12 to 18 months stored in airtight pump bottles below 25°C.
Can this formulation recipe be scaled up for commercial batch manufacturing?
Yes. All formulation percentages are calibrated to 100% batch weight. To scale from a 100g test sample to a 10kg or 50kg production run, multiply each ingredient weight proportionally while maintaining temperature controls and high-shear blending.
Source Professional Ingredients for This Formulation
Ekora Bazaar supplies batch-tested raw ingredients, cosmetic bases, essential oils, and packaging containers with tiered wholesale pricing and ₹90 pan-India delivery.